If you have never trained for climbing before or you have been climbing for less the two years this is the way to go!

The recipe

80% climbing and bouldering.

20% general strength and fitness. 

Key ingredient: The main focus of your time should be climbing…around about 80% of your total weekly activity time. 

Climbing and Bouldering

Why? Being exposed to different climbing movements, holds, body positions will make you a better climber! For years to come.

However, learning to enjoy climbing easier climbing and easier boulder problems will mean you have more time on the wall during your session learning how to climb…and this is what we want, exposure to more movements = better technique. Become a technically great climber and add your strength on top of that.

It is worth noting most of this climbing time is spent enjoying climbing and only a small portion trying hard on your projects. I know the feeling of trying hard and sending something you have been working on for a while…it feels amazing. However let’s bank some climbing time now which will return sends in the future.

“Movement is the key. At this stage of climbing development strength is not holding you back! Trust me.”
— Joe Ward

General strength and fitness. 

Focus on shoulder stability and connecting your top half and bottom half together with core strength and conditioning. Simple body weight exercise is the way to go here…push ups, sit ups, pull ups, squats…that kind of thing. 

Stay away from climbing specific strength exercise in the first year of your climbing…this time is better spent elsewhere…as I said earlier improving technique and movement on the wall.

General fitness is key and keep in mind it’s a good idea to train your non-climbing muscles too!

I hope this gives you some guidance if you are new to climbing training!

Enjoy your climbing, Joe

 

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